Got it.I drilled through the metal with the 4.1, finished with the 3.6, and this bit does exactly that.Seems like that makes sense for any metal topsheet. But, I notice Armada recommends this bit, a 3.6 or a 4.1. What would the advantage be of having the 4.1 bore go straight through to the bottom of the hole when using a 4.1?It's more efficient when mounting skis in shops? 4.1 allows the shaft of the screw to pass through a metal, carbon or any topsheet without compressing the material nor creating volcanoes for cleaner finish. A 3.5 or 3.6mm tip allows the screw to compress into the material, unless it is tapped first for cleaner threading.I thought Armada strictly recommended the stepped bit only, not either 3.6mm or 4.1mm.Realize that the difference in diameter is a minuscule 0.5mm. A slight wobble in a 3.6mm tip could end up being 4.1mm or whatever.
BW Basic class Drill Bit - Gen T30 Deluxe class Armada Starscream - RID2015 CF One-Step Changer Soundwave. And with that we end the first part of the gallery, which divided each figure of my collection from 2008 to 2018 in their respective years of acquisition. In the next post, we’ll start the second category, which will divide them.
![Bit Bit](http://www.transformertoys.co.uk/images/transformers-toys/armada/minicon/destruction-team/drillbit/drillbit-006.jpg)
It's sort of like like splitting hairs, but if you tap a 3.6mm hole you may also end up more like 4.1mm.They both have been industry standards and have worked for eons. Armada dreamed up their bit and it can be argued as being esoteric or their shtick.
I don't think it's a bad idea, but for some, unnecessary. It's more efficient when mounting skis in shops? 4.1 allows the shaft of the screw to pass through a metal, carbon or any topsheet without compressing the material nor creating volcanoes for cleaner finish. A 3.5 or 3.6mm tip allows the screw to compress into the material, unless it is tapped first for cleaner threading.I thought Armada strictly recommended the stepped bit only, not either 3.6mm or 4.1mm.Realize that the difference in diameter is a minuscule 0.5mm. A slight wobble in a 3.6mm tip could end up being 4.1mm or whatever. It's sort of like like splitting hairs, but if you tap a 3.6mm hole you may also end up more like 4.1mm.They both have been industry standards and have worked for eons. Armada dreamed up their bit and it can be argued as being esoteric or their shtick.
I don't think it's a bad idea, but for some, unnecessary.Considering the soft plywood cores armada uses it makes spinners much more common. FFS the only thing holding your bindings on those things is the topsheet. It's a little weird.
The stepped bit seems like the best of both worlds- right size pilot hole in the metal, and good bite into the wood. But, some of their skis use a 4.1,All good in my world- Did one mount with a 4.1. I bet it holds.Did one mount drilling a shallow 4.1 pilot, finished with 3.6. Bet it holds.Don't have a tap- Ran a screw in and out with no binding first, chamfered the hole.Looks like list where the techs and DIYers have to remember that the double step bit is for every Armada but D, Q, U & Z skis. Why the difference?Regarding the 'use a screw as a tap' approach, the threads of a self-tapping wood or ski screw compresses the material.
A tap cuts the material to create the thread path. The stepped bit is to prevent the Volcano on the top sheet.If a ski doesn't have metal it shouldn't be drilled with a 4.1 bit. 3.6 all the way.If you don't want a volcano press harder on the drill bit and take a little more top sheet off, no volcano. Metal top sheet or not.I've probably mounted more than 10k pairs of skis in the last 17 years between Volkl and Blizzard. 90% with two sheets of metal.
Never tapped one single hole, unless it was for a helicoil.Really depends on the core. I have found that bamboo you HAVE to tap as it is dense.
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